On Mon, 11 Mar 2019 19:04:53 -0500, you wrote:
>Thank you thank you, Chuck!
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>Just the kind of info I have been looking for here.
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>There are a few machine tools on the auction as well that will be sold separately though.
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>I have been to look at the things several times now as the auction house is just a block down the street!
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>Here is a link to the site and pic's of everything he has up so far.
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>https://www.harrylahrauctions.com/march-16th-auction.html
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>I'm sure there are items in there I should get even if I do pass on the mill itself.
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>Set of MHC R8 end mill holders ?? set of 5 Lyndex R8 collets 1/8, ¼, 3/8, 5/8, ¾
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>A huge Kurtz vice
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>Should I be thinking of buying this stuff?
In a word, no. Now that's blanket, and as such, has exceptions.
Without a shop setup, or without a mill, buying accessories that may
be mill specific can be a waste of money.
Assume, for instance, you decide that R8 is the way to go for mill
collets and tooling. So stocking up on that, you find a wonderful
bargain on a mill with MT3 tooling.... Well, now what?
So to consider:
1) what do you want to make (that determines tooling and size)
2) take the size and multiply it by at least 1.5....
3) decide your budget
4) start looking for things within that budget.
5) for each mill, figure out where it goes, how you can get it here,
and how you can power it. Also note the slot size and tooling.
6) once you find something that will work for you and you have it....
7) start to buy specific tooling.
For instance, the SEIG SX1 (micromill) uses MT2 tooling and has small
slots in the table. The SX2 (I think the common one) can use either
R8 or MT3. Also has larger table slots.
The mill-drill has different tooling (not sure which) and even larger
t-slots.
Buy the clamping kit only after you know the dimensions of the t-slots
on the mill.
Harvey
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>From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]
>Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 6:53 PM
>To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [GrizHFMinimill] Newbie w/questions
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>One more thing about facing heads. There is such a things as a "face mill cutter" which typically is a larger diameter than the regular cutters and usually has a number of individual cutting edges around a circle. I don't know much about resurfacing heads, but know there is belief it is best to do it in a single pass and some use fly cutters and some use face mills (and some use dedicated machines for the purpose – but that's another thing entirely). The fly cutter lets you cut a very wide path. But they can be a little, shall we say, overly thrilling to use. With a face cutter, you typically need to make two or more passes. Things typically never line up quite perfectly with multiple passes and you see a line between the passes. If things are set up well, things can still be quite flat, but it is easy to have a small edge between passes. This may or may not matter. Just more things to think about.
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>Chuck K.
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>Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
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>From: trainliker ckinzer@att.net [GrizHFMinimill] <mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 4:26 PM
>To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [GrizHFMinimill] Newbie w/questions
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>I believe the Grizzly G9748 is a little above the traditional "mini-mill", but not by much. It's pretty much the same idea and much information on this group would likely apply.
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>They don't sell it anymore, but here is a link so folks can see what it looks like: https://www.grizzly.com/products/3-PHASE-GEAR-HEAD-MILLING-MACHIN/G9748
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>There is a great deal of "tooling" that is possible to use with a milling machine or a lathe.
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>The clamping kit is a good start and a pretty basic necessity for a mill. The other really basic item typically needed is a milling vise. There are all kinds, sizes, and qualities. I suggest a good one. They also make tilting vises but usually you normally use a regular vise. The Kurta brand, or one styled like it, is somewhat of an industry standard. Many milling machines spend most of their life with the vise mounted on the table and seldom removed. A really good vise can be costly, but you may not need a really good one. They also come in all sizes. Usually its best to get one that is as large as practical for the machine, but not too large. But if you are talking large parts like the heads you mentioned, you probably won't be able to hold them in a vise and that's where the clamping parts come in handy. There are also devices that affix to the T slot that provide a sort of vise and a movable vise jaw as separate parts so you can grip something long down the length of
>the table.
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>One item that can be handy, and help save the milling table from being accidentally machine, are "parallels". One way these are used is under the work piece to raise them up a little. There are also "adjustable parallels" but most don't use them. Often, people also put a piece of scrap under the work piece so if something goes wrong it is sacrificed instead of the table surface.
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>The machine probably has an "R-8" spindle which isn't the only taper type used on milling machines, but is the most common. You might want to consider a fly cutter head for surfacing a head if that is the best way to do it. Or, of course, just mill it. You will need a number of milling cutters and they typically come in 2-flute and 4-flute styles and some are designed so you can "plunge cut" and some can't. There are also "roughing cutters". Cutters come in various quality levels and you pretty much get what you pay for. You can go to a place like Travers Tool Co. and see all these sort of things.
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>You may need some doo dad called an "edge finder" to aid in aligning the work piece with the milling cutter in some circumstances.
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>If you are trying to do heavier machining (which means you are making a of heat) you may want a cooling system and for small machines a "mist cooler" can be a good way to go.
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>You will also need basic measuring tools if you don't already have them. Calipers, micrometers, and on and on. A similar category that you may already have is eye protection. And you never wear gloves or have any loose clothing or hair around machines.
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>Also make sure you get some good lubricant for maintaining the machine's bare metal surfaces.
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>I don't know if this mill has a power down feed. It might. If so, sometimes they are designed to aid in power tapping. If so, you might want to get some taps when needed. It is almost never a good idea to buy cheap quality taps.
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>The possibilities for tooling are nearly endless, but as you start doing things you will figure out what you need.
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>Also, this sort of machine should really be anchored to a work bench. Just like mini-mills, it looks like especially that front handwheel (for the Y axis movement) is pretty low. So unless it is protruding off the front edge of the bench, you bang your fingers when trying to turn it. So you may want to mount the mill on a riser that is maybe a couple inches thick or so.
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>Chuck K.
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>Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
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>From: finsruskw@iowatelecom.net [GrizHFMinimill] <mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 3:31 PM
>To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Newbie w/questions
>
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>Hello!
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>Newbie here from Iowa. Retired trucker
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>Thinking of bidding on a Grizzly G9748 that will be on an auction here on Sat 3/16
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>I know next to nothing about machining but wish to learn.
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>A clamping kit, drill chuck and a few collets come with it and that's about all.
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>Is this machine fit the description "mini mill" and am Iin the correct family here if I purchase this?
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>About what would something like this be worth?
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>I expect it will go $1200-1400 $ ??? Which in my case, I'd sooner buy new and will pass.
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>I restore old garden tractors.
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>What minimal tooling will I need to cut slots and perhaps resurface aluminum heads for single cylinder Kohler engines. as I restore old garden tractors.
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>Any help you folks could offer would be greatly appreciated.
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>I have already ordered the book "Machining for Dummies"!! insert smiley face (here)
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>Thanks!!
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Posted by: Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info>
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