Harvey! Thanks.
Actually my mill is a harbor freight. Assumed the specs were close enough for an occasional use. I need to true up some surfaces for my 6 ton bench press Am making some new blocks for odd shaped auto parts.
Thanks for the help, I pulled the spindle. (easy) talked the spindle and tapped in the chuck with wood block and hard mallet.
Wa La,
thanks'
SS
At 06:16 PM 10/23/2011, you wrote:
On Sun, 23 Oct 2011 20:51:03 -0000, you wrote:
>I am new to the machine tool thing in general. So I don't yet know all the terms and tool names.
Everybody starts there.
>
> I bought a used mill. It has a taper chuck to the Drive shaft.
>
Typically, there's a pair (or one) letter and a number. The number
indicates size (diameter) and the letters indicate taper.
Typical to find are R-3 and MT2 and MT3.
>On my first attempt to use it the chuck falls off the taper.
If the chuck falls off the taper itself, then it's not pressed on
firmly and properly. All the chucks (I assume you mean drill chuck)
are expected to come with a taper which matches the spindle in the
mill.
The drill chuck taper is normally a Jacobs taper (JT-somenumber), or a
similar thing.
However, the drill chucks generally are self holding, and you just
press them on (properly).
The key is that the other chucks need a drawbar. The spindle is
hollow, and there's a threaded rod that pulls the taper back into the
spindle. Do not tighten it excessively.
>
>What is the procedure for putting it on and having it stay?
drawbar.
Harvey
>
>SS
>
>
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