[GrizHFMinimill] Re: $50 mini-mill power feed

You are getting warm on the clutch engagement, actually the bolt head with the crank pin is above the clutch and slightly off center of the centerline of the lead screw/motor drive, the crank pin sticks downward and is continuously engaged into the slot in the sliding hex piece. Looking from the top, the little pin in the dis-engaged position is at about 10 o'clock and rotates to 2 o'clock position to engage the clutch. There is not much space between the clutch and table bottom, so the bolt head is pretty thin. Hope that helps, I'll get pics later today....

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@...> wrote:
>
> I "hit" the same problem. I noticed you moved your head to the left on the X to avoid those 45 degree supports for the column, but it didn't help with the shield hitting like you say. I'm starting to think that little baby accordions on the scale itself -- left and right of the head -- might be the ticket. Just a thought at this point. Let's keep bantering on this...
>
> Now, onto the topic that's had me pacing day and night -- the engaging mechanism for your power feed clutch...
> I still don't think I get it. Here's what I'm guessing at:
> * There's a concentric bolt head extending down beneath the X/Y table and the bolt head's height lines up with the center of the shaft.
> * That machined bolt head has a pin sticking out of its side pointing directly towards the drive shaft when the rotation lever is in the middle of it's range.
> * That pin can catch in the groove of the left side of the clutch (with the hex head) and push it left or right as I move the cute little lever on top of the table -- engaging or disengaging the drive.
>
> Is that it?
>
> If so, how do you keep the pin in the groove for the entire length of it's travel? Is it spring loaded?
>
> Pics would be so wonderful... :)
>
> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Grimm" <grimmrlg@> wrote:
> >
> > Glad you got the inspiration from my project.
> >
> > My first attempt at the shield was like yours and not very straight so I made the second one using the outside form as well and turned out much nicer. I do have one minor issue with the x-axis scale mounting and shield in that it limits the Y axis travel in the rearward direction because the rubber chip guard bunches up between the plexiglass and the back of the mill in the last inch of travel, squeezing the plexiglass shield and the dro sensing head.
> > I'm looking for a thinner flexible shield that won't present this obstruction.
> >
> > When the family all goes home from the holidays, I'll get you the pics of the clutch.
> >
> > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Rick. I tried with some black plastic last night using a plumbing torch but only did the first part you mentioned. So, it came out a little wavy. It looks so crappy, it kinda looks like part of the accordion. :) But, it works. I could not and would not have done the DRO without your inspiration. I did it about twice -- hitting many of the space issues that I think you may have hit too. It ended up being one of the most fun projects I've done in years.
> > >
> > > Thanks so much.


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