http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/photos/album/2130350934/pic/list
To answer your other questions, the socket on the end of the X axis lead screw is a 9/16" 12 point. I did mill the hex head on the clutch sliding piece to fit the socket but the motor shaft came with the D flat on it when I bought it. I used a round head bolt for a set screw seated on the sliding collar and the thread length adjusted to allow it to slide on the D flat, then ground down the head so it would clear the close space under the X table, could have locktited a real set screw, but didn't have one. Hope the pics help....
--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@...> wrote:
>
> It's like an idea scavenger hunt... :) In pacing around thinking about it, I did think about the pin sticking out of the bottom of an upside-down bolt head. I think I get it now, but still looking forward to pic. You're right about there being no room under there. I'm guessing that's why you milled down the screw heads.
>
> Two more questions:
> Did you use a 15mm socket for the clutch?
> Did you mill a slot on the "D" flat of the motor shaft for the left side clutch member's set screw to ride in? Looks like yes but not exactly sure from the pic.
>
>
>
> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Grimm" <grimmrlg@> wrote:
> >
> > You are getting warm on the clutch engagement, actually the bolt head with the crank pin is above the clutch and slightly off center of the centerline of the lead screw/motor drive, the crank pin sticks downward and is continuously engaged into the slot in the sliding hex piece. Looking from the top, the little pin in the dis-engaged position is at about 10 o'clock and rotates to 2 o'clock position to engage the clutch. There is not much space between the clutch and table bottom, so the bolt head is pretty thin. Hope that helps, I'll get pics later today....
> >
> > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I "hit" the same problem. I noticed you moved your head to the left on the X to avoid those 45 degree supports for the column, but it didn't help with the shield hitting like you say. I'm starting to think that little baby accordions on the scale itself -- left and right of the head -- might be the ticket. Just a thought at this point. Let's keep bantering on this...
> > >
> > > Now, onto the topic that's had me pacing day and night -- the engaging mechanism for your power feed clutch...
> > > I still don't think I get it. Here's what I'm guessing at:
> > > * There's a concentric bolt head extending down beneath the X/Y table and the bolt head's height lines up with the center of the shaft.
> > > * That machined bolt head has a pin sticking out of its side pointing directly towards the drive shaft when the rotation lever is in the middle of it's range.
> > > * That pin can catch in the groove of the left side of the clutch (with the hex head) and push it left or right as I move the cute little lever on top of the table -- engaging or disengaging the drive.
> > >
> > > Is that it?
> > >
> > > If so, how do you keep the pin in the groove for the entire length of it's travel? Is it spring loaded?
> > >
> > > Pics would be so wonderful... :)
> > >
> > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Grimm" <grimmrlg@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Glad you got the inspiration from my project.
> > > >
> > > > My first attempt at the shield was like yours and not very straight so I made the second one using the outside form as well and turned out much nicer. I do have one minor issue with the x-axis scale mounting and shield in that it limits the Y axis travel in the rearward direction because the rubber chip guard bunches up between the plexiglass and the back of the mill in the last inch of travel, squeezing the plexiglass shield and the dro sensing head.
> > > > I'm looking for a thinner flexible shield that won't present this obstruction.
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