I too have been thinking about a shaft with a ball that moves a fork back and forth to engage/disengage the clutch kinda like your rev 2. I'm not too fired up about milling slots in the underside of the table, but I'm a wusse... I'm thinking of perhaps a long, well mounted bushing to hold the bar and keep it aligned nicely.
Barry
--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Grimm" <grimmrlg@...> wrote:
>
> I turned down a 6mm socket head cap bolt by offsetting it in my 3 jaw chuck with shims enough to put the rim of the cap bolt on center. It was a pain so now I'm the proud owner of a 4 jaw independant chuck for the next offset turning project. The hex head on the sliding clutch piece was milled using a rotary table and chuck in the mill.
>
> I've considered remaking the clutch engager from a thin flat piece bolted loosely in slots to underside of the table above the clutch with a u-shaped fork riding in the clutch slot then extenting an actuating bar out the motor mount endcap, this would get the actuating lever out of the swarf piles and free up the T-slot. I'll get new pics if I do this....
>
> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@> wrote:
> >
> > Did you cut the pin on using the rotary table on the mill? The marks on the flat part kinda look like maybe that's how you milled it.
> >
> > I was thinking of trying to turn it on the lathe and having visions of little pins flying across the garage after working on that bolt for an hour.
> >
> >
> > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Grimm" <grimmrlg@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've finally got some pic posted of the clutch engagement cam at the end of my photo album you can see at:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/photos/album/2130350934/pic/list
> > >
> > > To answer your other questions, the socket on the end of the X axis lead screw is a 9/16" 12 point. I did mill the hex head on the clutch sliding piece to fit the socket but the motor shaft came with the D flat on it when I bought it. I used a round head bolt for a set screw seated on the sliding collar and the thread length adjusted to allow it to slide on the D flat, then ground down the head so it would clear the close space under the X table, could have locktited a real set screw, but didn't have one. Hope the pics help....
> > >
> > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > It's like an idea scavenger hunt... :) In pacing around thinking about it, I did think about the pin sticking out of the bottom of an upside-down bolt head. I think I get it now, but still looking forward to pic. You're right about there being no room under there. I'm guessing that's why you milled down the screw heads.
> > > >
> > > > Two more questions:
> > > > Did you use a 15mm socket for the clutch?
> > > > Did you mill a slot on the "D" flat of the motor shaft for the left side clutch member's set screw to ride in? Looks like yes but not exactly sure from the pic.
> (older thread messages deleted)
>
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