I'm about to make the motor mount plate. Of course the placement of all the mounting bolts will determine the shaft alignment whose accuracy seems critical. Did you do this by trial and error? I.E.: Did you mount the motor on the plate and leave it all and then figure out where to drill the plate-to-mill mounting holes and cut the leftovers off the top?
Or... do you have some nifty trick to really accurately measure where that hole for the shaft needs to end up (the part that's stumping me a bit right now) and then back-calculate all the other positions from there.
I know I'm close at the wanting the center of the shaft wanting to be about 1.425 (translated from "1 and 3/8 plus") below the top edge of the side of the X/Y table. But, that was using rulers and tired aging eyes.
I think I'll pull the table end and see if my dial caliper jaws can reach from the table edge to the left tip of the lead screw. That might do it.
--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@...> wrote:
>
> It all helps. Thanks Rick. Hopefully I'll have some pictures in the next few weeks. Got all the electronics and the motors are fantastic. They've got great torque to the point where I can't stop them by grabbing the shaft.
>
> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Grimm" <grimmrlg@> wrote:
> >
> > Yes, after machining and installing the clutch, I measured the location of the slot in the moving half and measured the location for the cam bolt. The actual rotation is nearly 180 degrees, but it really only take about .25" of clutch travel from disengaged to full engagement, so considering the cam travel is about .37", a full 180 is not necessary, just happens that its travel is limited due to its location near the t-slots. The actuator handle is a collar with a tapped hole for a longer bolt that acts as the handle so you can adjust the actual travel and end point of the engagement by locking the handle anywhere on the cam bolt. Hope this helps.....
> >
> > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I probably need to look again, but after checking late last night, there doesn't seem to be any easy way to get a rod actuator in to where the clutch is from the motor side of the mounting plate.
> > >
> > > So, back to Rick's idea with the levered screw.
> > >
> > > Rick,
> > > I was going to ask for measurements of pretty much everything but then thought about it. Did you cut both sides of the clutch and the cam-pin screw and then just figure out where to drill the table top by playing with the clutch from the bottom?
> > >
> > > Also, in another message, you mentioned the pin (or the little lever) moves from the 10 o' clock position to 2 o' clock. It looked like it just moved 180 degrees when you moved it. Does it rotate more or am I missing something else?
> > >
> >
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/
<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/join
(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
GrizHFMinimill-digest@yahoogroups.com
GrizHFMinimill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
GrizHFMinimill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/