1 Black
1 Red
1 Yellow
2 Blue
2 Green
This is all the sticker says -- no kidding:
In:
0V -- 110V -- 230V
Black Red Yellow
Out:
0V -- 35V 0V -- 35V
Blue Blue Green Green
The input seems simple enough. The output is confusing. I think these were sold for audio amp applications. I'm guessing the the two 35 volt wraps might be intended to supply separate circuits. It's easy enough to ring out which greens and which blues are hot/cold.
What I'm wondering is if I can wire those outputs together to get all of the output into one circuit which is the CNC power supply.
So, I'm still a little confused too. I have no other paperwork but I did dig up this note from the seller some years back which makes sense enough:
It can be connected both in parallel for double
current and in series for double voltage.
--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
>
> On Sun, 05 Feb 2012 05:04:07 -0000, you wrote:
>
> >I have the geckos already and I think those should be fine. The controller's good stuff I know. I just need to re-read the spec sheets on the geckos and make sure that if I upgrade to a higher amperage power supply, I make equivalent adjustments to the current limiting resistors on the drives if they're not correct already. The problem is it's all on a circuit board. I would probably have to rewire everything point-to-point to get it right. I even have a big old torroid xformer that I bought for this effort years back, but wiring that is wierd too -- just that torroid because the wiring setup is strange. I also did a bunch of research on all of this -- talking to Marriss at Gecko and some really cool dude at the motor company -- and wrote up a report. It could be as simple as buying an eBay power supply and changing some resistors and caps. It works now and I'm pretty busy and would want to spend the time to be careful and not bugger it up.
>
> From what I remember of the Gecko wiring and supplies, you can always
> use a heavier (more amps) supply than needed, it just won't draw that
> much. It draws what's needed. The Geckos (again, remembering) take
> an external resistor for current limiting. Depends on which ones you
> bought. Best of the higher power are the 203V drives for steppers.
>
> Best of the smaller drive are the 251 (I think that's the number).
> Those are wired with a resistor in the 9 pin connector.
>
> For the transformer, just wire primary to 120 (parallel windings if
> 120/240), Secondary to a bridge, then bridge to *large* capacitors.
> You might want a bleeder resistor so the capacitors don't retain a
> charge forever... Bulk supplies work well with stepper drives.
>
> Marriss is a really nice person. Not often you get to talk to the
> head of the company, ever. Also the chief designer.
>
> Just don't exceed the drive voltages, I'd stay about 10% under to
> allow for voltage excursions on the line. That extra 10%, especially
> on a mini-mill, you may never need (nor notice the lack).
>
> Harvey
>
> >
> >Again, thanks to your inadvertent prodding, I got the mod rework installed and it was fun to just turn it on for the first time in years. Now that my metalworking skills are improving, I can think of so many other cool mods which I might get to.
> >
> >Here's a picture of the original X carriage drive upgrade I did years back (on the left for other readers who might need to know):
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/photos/album/1391879091/pic/1067216038/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
> >
> >I wasn't able to bore well back then so the shaft wobbled. A little wobble goes a long way in accuracy... Also, eventually the pinion gear set screw came loose and I Krazy glued a lot of the other sets screws in place like a moron -- following the lead of the "frugal" manufacturer. So, I had to drill out a ton of set screws just to get it off there. Then I remade it all. You can hardly tell the difference in a pic. A few dimensions are wider to eliminate collisions in the first version and it's now got an idler roller with a light pinky's worth of pressure.
> >
> >Used blue Locktite across the board this time. :)
> >
> >
> >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "dave_mucha" <dave_mucha@> wrote:
> >>
> >> the power for a motor is based on how you wire it. parallel or serial.
> >>
> >> for parallel, you put in more voltage and can get the motor to move faster.
> >>
> >> for serial, you put in less voltage.
> >>
> >> the motor power is the same, the motor heat is much less.
> >>
> >> when cutting there is no difference. when doing rapids you may find a difference on large tables. my 8 foot table shows a real difference in rapids. on my 12" circuit board machine, it is hardly noticeable.
> >>
> >> If you have the $$$, then start with the Geckos.
> >>
> >> Dave
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "bbass408" <bbass408@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > I'm probably going to email you out of the group since we'll probably go off the deep end on CNC unless it's OK with the mods to do that here.
> >> >
> >> > I actually don't know the output voltage of my power supply. I did a bunch of research on it years ago and then pretty much forgot everything -- had a kid... I know it's current is way too low -- about 1/3 of what it wants to be. The drivers are Gecko 201s. One thing I think I remember is that if I add current from the power supply, I'd need to change the current limiting resistors on the Gecko drives.
> >> >
> >> > Anyway, you got me all fired up. What started me back into metalworking was a do-over on the X gear box I remade years back and which f-d up. I had everything ready and last night I put it all together. Accurate to 1 thou as far as repeatability on steps. When I was talking about cut accuracy yesterday, I was talking about what I was really seeing in terms of cut errors since there's plenty of flex in the system. So, bit going to fast, head moving too slow, a little looseness, etc. and I can see the errors before I measure with calipers. I used to make guitars as a hobby and that makes you good at spotting small errors.
> >> >
> >> > Look forward to e-chatting more on this.
> >> >
> >> > System specs FYI:
> >> > PracticalCNC table. Basically the ponzy scheme of the CNC business in 2005. Oh well, I own it... It's 80/20 with gear drives on X and Y and an ACME screw on the Z. 250oz/in Powermax motors.
> >> > Controller Software: WinCNC which is actually a nice controller.
> >> > Other software: Visual Mill, MeshCam, Rhino CAD, and whatever that cool cheap 2D toolpath software was that came out in 2005 and which is still really popular -- I forget the name.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "g_liming" <g_liming@> wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > If you want to cut steel, its a whole different ballgame. The rigidity required goes up with depth of cut and with how much acceleration you set the machine to, so you can cut anything if you're willing to make enough passes - but hey, that's why you built a robot to do that. On 6061 aluminum, I usually use a DOC of .050 or so and use a .125 in single flute "O" type cutter made for routing aluminum. As long as making 100s of them isn't a requirement (like on the production machines you mentioned), you can finesse a lot of things.
> >> > > Happy to answer questions. What voltage is your supply right now?
> >> > >
> >> > > BTW, I fumbled the shift key before. Its www.liming.org/espcopter
> >> > > and www.liming.org/orrery
> >> > >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
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