Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Beginner questions



Hi Robert and welcome to the group. I hope you are finding what you are looking for. I've always found this group very helpful over the years.


In this case I was referring to the cap screws than secure the angle plate/pivot down to the base casting. This joint needs to be as good and tight as possible to reduce movement.as it is magnified by the column length


The advice on replacing fasteners on Chinese machines was common to most all the small lathe, mill, saw etc groups at the time and I still see comments nowadays so I guess the problems still exists. Most common are those that are manipulated during use like gib adjusting screws, way-locks, tool securing screws on the lathe etc and where a strong bolted connection is needed

like the mill base joint and a lathe headstock to bed connection


There's no need to replace all and you can replace them gradually I did this with gib screws as they gradually were rounded out by the hex keys and could no longer be tightened properly


Hope this helps


Gerry W

Leeds UK


From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Robert Rieckenberg robertr9619@sbcglobal.net [GrizHFMinimill] <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: 16 November 2015 17:25
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Beginner questions
 
 

what fasteners are you referring as "cheese" fasteners.  I am new to the mini mill forum and am very interested in any information available I have a Harbor Freight mini mill that has the tilting column.
 
Robert Rieckenberg



On Monday, November 16, 2015 5:37 AM, "gerry waclawiak gerrywac@hotmail.co.uk [GrizHFMinimill]" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
Agreed Charlie.

When I bought my mini-mill15 or so years ago the tilt hollow column was the only show in town.

A plus point of this was the gas spring and longer rack (now a much sought mod that was once standard) the downside the lack of rigidity.

Early users spotted and reseach this fairly early on and identified the causes quite quickly. What surprised many people was that the hollow column itself is surprisingly rigid and efforts to stiffen the column itself including filling with resin or concrete grout yielded relatively small improvements.

Most effective measure without making substantial modifications were in priority

Separate the column, angle/pivot and base castings and debur and clean them (and remove paint blobs!) . flat and lap the mating surfaces and reassemble

Replace the thin Belville washer with a thick rectangular steel spreader plate

Replace the Chinese "Cheese" fasteners with good quality high tensile ones

I carried out these mods fairly early after purchase and achieved nearly 80% reduction in flex

I never did bother with exploring the colmun rigidity as it was good enough for me and I valued the gas spring head set-up too much.

Gerry W
Leeds UK


From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of clevinski@comcast.net [GrizHFMinimill] <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: 16 November 2015 12:35
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Beginner questions
 
 
Markkimball2000 wrote: "Replacing the stock washer with a big steel plate also is a relatively minor thing to do."

I second this, and would strongly recommend it.  I used to have to retram my mill every few weeks.  Then I replaced the stock washer with a 1/2 inch thick steel plate that extends all the way to the edges of the column.  This one change alone made a HUGE difference.  Now I check the tram every few months, but end up retramming maybe once or twice a year.  And the entire system seems significantly more rigid...

Just my two cents worth...

Charlie
New Jersey, USA




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Posted by: gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@hotmail.co.uk>



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