Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Removing collet chuck



From what I remember the biggest problem I had was simply unscrewing the draw bar - I managed to bed the little "tool" that goes into the column locking hole.
 
I finally managed to get it undone using impact wrench. 
 
As for your problem it may be an MT taper - R8 should not be such an issue. Undo the draw bar like 3 or 4 turns and tap (unless you want to mushroom the draw bar use brass - draw bar cheap).
 
Now the MT2-Jt33 or R8-JT33 part is cheap - so even if you damage the threads at the end it's not expensive deal. Just make sure you somehow don't hit the bearings too hard.
 
BTW, draw bar is under the plastic black cup - in case you actually undid something else.
 
 
 
From: "Warren LeMay notebook@squarework.com [GrizHFMinimill]" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2016 2:19 PM
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Removing collet chuck
 
 

I fully agree with the "if it doesn't move, oil it" theory.

However, I've found over the years that one application is often just a warm-up, and it pays to use a product designated as 'penetrating' as opposed to a lubricant or water displacing oil.

Also, the advice to unload the spindle by supporting in some manner before the 'tap' is applied is good advice.  I'm not home, so cant look at the mill, but I used a large socket (from a socket set) that went around the spindle.

If you have a drill check on that spindle, it should separate from its 'tailpiece' and make it to where you can support on the inside bearing race.  Seems that mine had a spanner nut I used for support.

Mine is an R-8, but I do understand that many are MT.  The R8 has a keyway slot which could complicate the loosening process if moisture got into there.

In any case, dont support on the xy table.  Bridge across the bed with a 4x4 and some blocks.  No good to fix one thing and break something else.

....and the good news - if the chuck works, go on and use the mill while the oil is working....  The vibration, etc. could help more than it hurts.

Warren L
 

On 1/3/2016 4:09 PM, 'Michael Jablonski' michaeljab@cox.net [GrizHFMinimill] wrote:
 

 

What make and model of mill do you have?
 
You are doing the proper procedure for most mills, that is loosen the draw bolt a turn or two and tap (sometimes whack) the top of the bolt to release the taper.
 
How long has the mill been sitting with the drill chuck installed? Depending on how long it has been installed without being removed, and the weather in your area, it may have become quite stuck in place. It is best to remove any tooling when not being used. I learned this when I left my drill chuck in the tail stock of my lathe too long.
 
I'd start by removing the draw bolt and squirting a little WD-40 or penetrating oil down the spindle to help loosen it up.
 
If tapping on the draw bolt doesn't do it, then remove it and use a long brass rod (do not use steel) and tap on that. You may want to support the headstock with something to prevent undue stress on the column.

Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill
 
-----Original Message-----
From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2016 11:50 AM
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Removing collet chuck
 
 

 

Hi all

 

I am a new member and recently purchased a minimill.  I decided due to the lack of collets (I believe they are E32), but I am unsure exactly and want to see what else is on the market.  However, I cannot remove the chuck from the mill  and I am unsure whether it is morse taper or R8, I just cannot get it off, no matter how many taps (whacks) on the top bolt that i have loosened to remove the collet holder.

 

Any suggestions and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

Kind regards

 

 

 

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Posted by: "Tom Kitta" <tom@tomkitta.com>



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